They know this secret, because they are seekers.
What they seek is the ride of a lifetime.
And they know that in order to get that ride you must first ask for it, quietly and with determination.
Then you must make the necessary preparations: suit up, wax your board and paddle out, finding a good position in the ever-changing sea... waiting patiently and watching, for the next opportunity might arrive at any moment.
And by knowing what you want clearly allows you to recognize when it's approaching: you can see it, hear it and feel it in the moment just before it happens.
Here it comes!
Surfers know that the wave is never going to do all the work for you. You need to paddle to get yourself moving, because it's only when you do the work to align yourself with the wave -- matching its speed and direction...
That's when the magic happens.
All the energy you've spent and all the work you've done comes back to you a thousand times over as you are swept up and propelled forward as if by the very hand of God.
The intense power of that unpredictable force of nature compels you to step outside of time, to step outside of who you thought you were, if but for a moment; to be there fully and completely in that immeasurable space of roaring fluid; feeling the rush of life washing through every cell of your being as you're doing the seemingly impossible: simultaneously walking on water and flying without wings.
It's no surprise that you feel a primal howl of joy erupting from your center, bursting out and echoing across all that exists!
And whether it lasts for a few seconds or an eternity... every wave is the ride of the lifetime that you're experiencing in this magical moment of now.
This is flow. This is truly living.
And that's the secret that surfers know.
And now you know it too.